The Story of Shirts: A Fascinating Journey Through Time
- reptilicus
- Nov 26, 2024
- 5 min read
Updated: Feb 25
I thought I would start my first blog about shirts. Clearly, I like wearing them and they form a major part of my product range. They are timeless, functional and in my view, non gender, worn by all ages, all levels of society and race. Apart from jackets, they are made of many components and perhaps, one of the most intricate garments to make. They require exquisite finishing and attention to detail. The shirts I sell, are made up of mass-produced shirts, however, I seek to exploit the fabrics and their visual qualities. Adding unique detailing and paying attention to detail, at the same time trying to be sustainable.
The Origins of the Shirt: A Functional Beginning
The earliest shirts can be traced back to Ancient Egypt around 3000 BC. Initially, these garments were basic linen tunics worn by both men and women. They served mainly to protect the body from the sun and dust while allowing ease of movement in the hot climate.
These early shirts were made from accessible materials like natural fibers from plants, showcasing a straightforward approach to clothing. Unadorned and practical, these shirts set the foundation for what would evolve in later times.
The Medieval Transformation: Status and Style
As we moved into the Middle Ages, shirts began to change in both style and significance. By the 12th century, they had transformed from simple garments into symbols of status and identity. Men wore long tunics adorned with symbols of knighthood or coats of arms, while women wore elaborate blouses.
Shirts made from luxurious materials like silk became popular among the elite. The introduction of sleeves and collars added a sense of style, clearly differentiating the upper class from the lower. According to historical records, by the late Middle Ages, nearly 30% of the population owned at least one shirt, highlighting their growing status in society.
The Renaissance Revolution: Art Meets Fabric
The Renaissance era brought a wave of fashion change, where shirts became a critical part of the overall outfit. Between the 15th and 17th centuries, artisans experimented with cuts and designs, leading to shirts that were not only functional but visually striking.
During this time, the use of lace and embroidery became common, transforming shirts into elaborate works of art. Specific styles, such as the ruff shirt, became particularly popular among the upper class, showcasing intricate details. By the end of the Renaissance, around 60% of affluent households showcased decorative shirts in their wardrobes.
The Industrial Era: Production and Mass Consumption
The Industrial Revolution in the 18th century brought about radical changes in the production and consumption of shirts. Factories began to churn out clothing on a mass scale, making shirts accessible to the general population. Today, I question, this mass scale, churning out of clothes, was this fast fashion, of the day?
This democratization resulted in standardized sizes and styles, allowing a broader range of individuals to own shirts. The sewing machine played a pivotal role in this transformation, boosting production efficiency. By the mid-19th century, it is estimated that shirt prices dropped by nearly 50%, making them affordable for working-class families. Today, with mass production and the rise of questionable fast fashion brands, shirts are even cheaper.
The 20th Century: Revolution and Reinvention
The 20th century was a time of rapid social change, and shirts were no exception. This period saw numerous reinventions influenced by cultural shifts, wars, and fashion movements. Interestingly, and in the context of sustainability, the Government in WWII encouraged the population, to "Make Do and Mend". From June 1941 until 1949, buying new clothes was rationed in Britain. Make Do and Mend, was part of the Government's campaign urging people to repair, reuse and reimagine their existing clothes during the war. This newsreel trailer, made by the Ministry of Information in 1943, is called ‘Make Do and Mend’.
During World War II, functionality became crucial, leading to the introduction of practical military uniforms. Following the war, casual styles gained popularity, including the short-sleeved dress shirt, which became a summer staple.
In the mid-20th century, bright colours and unique patterns soared in popularity. The introduction of synthetic materials, like polyester, revolutionized shirt design, allowing for countless styles and options. Not only women had a better choice of styles, but men also could dress in a fashionable manner. Shops selling off-the-peg menswear spread across London, think Carnaby Street, Kings Road, traditional tailors and shirt-makers began to embrace society's increasingly informal new mood. Hung On You and Granny Takes a Trip in the Kings Road and Blades in Dover Street (now home to designer superstore, Dover Street Market. Details such as embroidery and vividly printed shirts became acceptable parts of the everyday male dress code – in London at least!
The V & A museum has a great post on "The Peacock Revolution: 1960's Menswear.
(left) Floral cotton shirt, Cockell & Johnson, 1960s, UK. Museum no. T.339-1989; (right) Yellow and white paisley cotton shirt, Liberty & Co., 1960s, UK. Museum no. T.196-1979; (centre) Multicoloured synthetic chiffon shirt, Deborah & Claire, 1965 – 1975, UK. Museum no. T.335-1989. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
The Modern Era: A Shirt for Every Occasion
Today, shirts come in a variety of styles, fabrics, and patterns. From casual T-shirts and button-ups to sophisticated blouses and polo shirts, shirts for every taste and occasion..
Modern shirts serve not just a functional purpose but also as a means of self-expression. The rise of streetwear and leisurewear has blurred the lines between casual and formal, encouraging individuals to experiment with unique styles. Not unlike a Hybrid Styles shirt!
Sustainability in Shirt Production: A Future Focus
As we look toward the future, sustainability in fashion has become increasingly important. More consumers are aware of the environmental impact of clothing production and are actively seeking ethically made options.
Brands are shifting their focus toward organic materials and transparent supply chains. This change indicates that the story of the shirt is no longer just about past trends but one being actively shaped by our choices today. Even brands that have not had a great transparency in regards to their supply chain are entering into partnership with recognised ethical and sustainable foundations such The Ellen McArthur Foundation. Fashion brands and retailers Inditex, Lacoste, Primark, PVH Corp, and Ralph Lauren Corporation have joined the Foundation’s Network as Partners. Small steps, but in the right direction.
Creating A Circular Economy
On the flip side of the coin, other brands such as Shein, continue to be in the news, where concerns are raised about their business model and their manufacturing (https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c4glzzdd88lo)
The Continual Evolution of Shirts
The evolution of shirts reflects broader social changes and cultural developments. From basic protective garments to symbols of identity and self-expression, shirts embody a fascinating journey through time. The fact that sustainability and the vast choice, shows, shirts will continue to evolve, adapting to modern values and remaining an important part of most wardrobes.
So when you go to put on a shirt, even one of my shirts, take a moment to appreciate the rich history it represents. Also before you buy a shirt, think; Why are you buying it? Is it an investment? Is it because it is cheap? Do you intend to wear it many times? How are you going to dispose of it?
Yorumlar